Chalice Coral Care Guide (Echinophyllia)
Chalice corals — a group that includes Echinophyllia, Mycedium, and Oxypora — are prized for some of the most intense, multi-layered colors in the reef hobby. These encrusting, plating LPS corals form colorful crusts and shelves studded with eyes and rims that seem to glow under blue light. They’re slower-growing and a touch more demanding than beginner LPS, but incredibly rewarding as a collector coral. This guide covers lighting for color, flow, placement, parameters, feeding, their potent nighttime aggression, and acclimation.
Care Level: Intermediate
Chalices are hardy once settled but appreciate stability and reward patience. Their color is heavily influenced by lighting, and they defend themselves with some of the longest sweeper tentacles in the hobby — both worth understanding before you place one.
Quick-Reference Care Parameters
| Coral type | LPS (encrusting / plating) |
| Care level | Intermediate |
| Lighting | Low–Moderate · PAR 50–120 |
| Flow | Low–Moderate, indirect |
| Placement | Lower to mid; give sweeper space |
| Temperature | 76–82°F (ideal ~78°F) |
| Salinity | 1.024–1.026 (~35 ppt) |
| Alkalinity | 8–11 dKH |
| Calcium | 400–450 ppm |
| Magnesium | 1250–1350 ppm |
| Nitrate | 2–10 ppm |
| Phosphate | 0.03–0.10 ppm |
| Feeding | Beneficial · target-feed at night 1–2× per week |
| Aggression | Very high · long, potent nighttime sweepers |
Lighting for Color
Lighting is the biggest lever for chalice color. Most chalices show their best color in the low-to-moderate range, roughly PAR 50–120, and many deepen and intensify their pigments toward the lower end. Too much light can bleach or brown them out. A blue-heavy spectrum makes their fluorescent rims and eyes pop. Any lighting change should be gradual — chalices don’t like sudden jumps in intensity.
Water Flow
Provide low-to-moderate, indirect flow. Enough movement to keep detritus off the surface, but not a direct stream. Gentle, random flow keeps the tissue clean and healthy without irritating it.
Placement
Start a chalice lower to mid in the tank and let it acclimate before considering more light. These corals encrust and plate outward over their surface, so give them room to grow — and, critically, room for their sweeper tentacles (below).
Water Parameters
Chalices calcify, so keep alkalinity (8–11 dKH), calcium (400–450 ppm), and magnesium (1250–1350 ppm) stable, along with steady temperature and salinity. Consistency is more important than any single target. A little nutrient in the water (nitrate 2–10 ppm, phosphate 0.03–0.10 ppm) supports color and tissue health.
Feeding
Chalices are efficient feeders and grow faster and color up better when fed. After dark they extend feeder tentacles — target-feed small meaty foods (mysis, chopped seafood, or a coral food) one to two times a week when the tentacles are out. Feed gently in reduced flow so the food stays on the coral.
Aggression: Respect the Sweepers
Chalices are among the more aggressive corals in the tank. At night they deploy long, potent sweeper tentacles — sometimes several inches long — that can seriously damage or kill neighbors. Give a chalice generous open space on all sides, and remember to account for where those tentacles can reach at night, not just the daytime footprint.
Common Problems
- Loss of color / browning: usually too much light or an unstable tank. Lower the light and stabilize parameters.
- Recession at the edges: often a stability issue (alkalinity or salinity swings) or a sting from a neighbor. Fix the cause and keep water steady.
- Slow to grow: chalices are naturally slow — steady conditions and light feeding encourage encrusting.
How to Acclimate Your New Chalice Coral
- Temperature match (15–20 min): Float the sealed bag with lights dimmed to equalize temperature.
- Drip acclimate (30–45 min): Open into a clean container and drip tank water in slowly until the volume roughly doubles.
- Coral dip (5–10 min): Use a reef-safe dip per directions, then rinse in clean saltwater.
- Placement: Set the frag low, in modest light and gentle flow, well clear of other corals’ sweeper range.
- Let it settle: Chalices can look flat or dull for the first week and take time to show full color. Keep light on the lower side at first and be patient.
Frequently Asked Questions
What light is best for chalice color?
Low-to-moderate, blue-heavy light — roughly PAR 50–120, often best toward the lower end. Change intensity gradually.
Are chalice corals aggressive?
Very. They extend long, stinging sweeper tentacles at night, so give them several inches of clearance from other corals.
Should I feed my chalice?
Yes — they respond well to target feeding at night one to two times a week, which improves growth and color.
What is WYSIWYG coral?
WYSIWYG means “What You See Is What You Get” — the exact coral pictured is the one shipped to you.
Shop WYSIWYG Chalice Coral & Care Guides
See this week’s hand-selected chalices in our live coral for sale collection. Explore more of our library, including the Cynarina Care Guide, the Hammer & Frogspawn Care Guide, and the Bubble Coral Care Guide.
