Leather Coral Care Guide (Sarcophyton & Toadstool Leathers)
Leather corals — including the classic toadstool (Sarcophyton) and crown-style leathers — are among the toughest, most forgiving soft corals in the hobby. They add graceful movement, a mushroom-like or crown silhouette, and a soft, flowing texture that contrasts beautifully with stony corals. Their hardiness makes them a favorite starter coral, while large, well-grown colonies become striking centerpieces. This guide covers lighting, flow, placement, parameters, feeding, the normal (and alarming-looking) shedding cycle, chemical aggression, and acclimation.
Care Level: Great for Beginners
Leathers are extremely hardy and tolerate beginner mistakes and less-than-perfect water better than most corals. The two things new keepers should understand are their periodic shedding (totally normal) and their chemical warfare with stony corals (manageable with carbon and water changes).
Quick-Reference Care Parameters
| Coral type | Soft coral |
| Care level | Beginner |
| Lighting | Low–Moderate · PAR 50–150 |
| Flow | Moderate, random |
| Placement | Mid rockwork; secure well (grows large) |
| Temperature | 76–82°F (ideal ~78°F) |
| Salinity | 1.024–1.026 (~35 ppt) |
| Alkalinity | 8–11 dKH |
| Calcium | 400–450 ppm |
| Magnesium | 1250–1350 ppm |
| Nitrate | 2–10 ppm |
| Phosphate | 0.03–0.10 ppm |
| Feeding | Rarely needed · mostly photosynthetic |
| Aggression | Chemical (allelopathy) · run carbon in mixed reefs |
Lighting
Leather corals are adaptable and do well under low-to-moderate light, roughly PAR 50–150. They don’t need intense output. As with any coral, acclimate to brighter lighting gradually to avoid bleaching. Under good light the polyps extend fully, giving the colony a fuzzy, active look.
Water Flow
Provide moderate, random flow. Good movement keeps the leather clean and its polyps extended, and helps it slough off waste. Too little flow lets detritus and algae accumulate on the waxy surface; too much keeps the polyps retracted.
Placement
Place leathers in the mid rockwork and secure them firmly — toadstools can grow large and top-heavy, and a colony that topples onto neighbors causes problems. Give them room, since they’ll expand outward and can shade or chemically pressure nearby stony corals.
Water Parameters
Leathers use sclerites rather than a solid stony skeleton, so they’re undemanding on calcium and alkalinity — but stability still matters. Keep temperature and salinity steady and maintain normal reef parameters. They actually appreciate a little nutrient in the water and generally look their best in tanks that aren’t kept ultra-sterile.
Feeding
Leather corals are primarily photosynthetic and rarely need feeding. Under good light they thrive on their symbiotic algae alone. You can offer occasional fine foods, but it isn’t necessary for health.
Shedding: Normal, Not a Problem
Every couple of weeks, a leather coral will pull its polyps in, take on a dull, waxy look, and slough off a cloudy film or tunic. This shedding is completely normal — it’s how the coral cleans algae and detritus off its surface. Within a day or two it re-opens, often looking cleaner and brighter. Don’t mistake a shedding leather for a sick one. Good flow helps the shed material clear away; you can gently blow it off with a turkey baster if it lingers.
Aggression: Chemical Warfare
Leathers defend their space by releasing terpenoid compounds into the water that can stunt or irritate nearby stony corals (especially SPS). In a mixed reef this is easily managed: run activated carbon, keep up regular water changes, and give leathers open space away from sensitive corals.
Common Problems
- Staying closed for more than a few days: if it’s not simply shedding, check for a parameter swing, too much direct flow, or irritation from a neighbor.
- Not attaching: new frags can take time to grip. Secure with a rubber band or coral glue to the rock/plug until it anchors.
- Toppling: large toadstools get top-heavy — mount them securely so they can’t fall onto other corals.
How to Acclimate Your New Leather Coral
- Temperature match (15–20 min): Float the sealed bag with lights dimmed to equalize temperature.
- Drip acclimate (20–40 min): Open into a clean container and slowly drip in tank water until the volume roughly doubles.
- Coral dip: A quick reef-safe dip removes hitchhikers; rinse in clean saltwater afterward.
- Placement: Secure the frag to rock in moderate flow and moderate light. Don’t be alarmed if it looks deflated at first.
- Let it settle: A new leather may stay closed or shed within the first week — both are normal. Give it time to open and anchor.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my leather coral look shriveled and waxy?
It’s almost certainly shedding — a normal self-cleaning cycle. It will re-open within a day or two, usually looking brighter.
Are leather corals reef-safe with other corals?
Yes, with a little management. They release mild chemicals, so run carbon and do regular water changes, and give SPS some space.
Do I need to feed my leather coral?
No — they’re mostly photosynthetic and thrive on light alone. Feeding is optional.
What is WYSIWYG coral?
WYSIWYG means “What You See Is What You Get” — the exact coral pictured is the one shipped to you.
Shop WYSIWYG Leather Corals & Care Guides
See this week’s hand-selected leathers in our live coral for sale collection. Explore the rest of our library, including the Zoanthid (Zoas & Palys) Care Guide, the Hammer & Frogspawn Care Guide, and the Goniopora Care Guide.
