Live coral includes both the living coral animal (polyp) and the hard or soft structure it builds. It’s often attached to live rock and hosts beneficial bacteria.

No. Wait until your tank is fully cycled and stable — usually 4 to 8 weeks — before adding coral.

Indeed. Many corals require high-quality reef lighting, usually LED or T5, to aid in photosynthesis by their symbiotic algae (zooxanthellae).

Begin with soft corals such as Zoanthids, Mushrooms, and Green Star Polyps. They withstand water fluctuations well.

Many corals get nutrients from light, but some also need supplemental feeding with coral foods like phytoplankton, zooplankton, or amino acids.

At least weekly. Key parameters include salinity, calcium, alkalinity, magnesium, nitrate, and phosphate.

Yes. Some corals release toxins or have sweeper tentacles. Leave space between species to avoid chemical and physical warfare.

Keep it stable between 76°F and 78°F. Fluctuations can stress or kill coral. To maintain a healthy environment for coral, ensure the temperature remains within the range of 76°F to 78°F.

No. Avoid coral-nipping fish like butterflyfish and large angelfish unless they’re reef-safe. Instead, consider adding peaceful community fish such as neon tetras or guppies to your aquarium.

Keep it stable between 76°F and 78°F. Fluctuations can stress or kill coral. To maintain a healthy environment for coral, ensure the temperature remains within the range of 76°F to 78°F.

We ship corals in insulated boxes with heat or cold packs, using overnight shipping to maintain temperature and reduce stress.

Highly recommended. Protein skimmers help maintain water quality by removing organic waste before it breaks down and harms corals.

8 to 10 hours of full-spectrum lighting per day is standard for coral growth, with optional ramp-up and ramp-down periods to mimic natural sunrise/sunset. To maximize coral health and growth, it is crucial to ensure a consistent lighting schedule of 8 to 10 hours per day.

Yes. A coral-only tank is feasible, but you'll have to dose nutrients and uphold biological equilibrium manually.

Bleaching is usually caused by stress from poor water quality, high temperatures, or intense lighting. Fix the root issue fast or the coral may die.

Yes. Growth rate depends on species, lighting, water quality, and stability. Soft corals grow fast. SPS grow slower but form intricate structures.

Absolutely. Coral dips remove pests like flatworms, nudibranchs, and eggs that hitchhike on new coral.

Use reef-safe super glue gel or epoxy. Dry the frag base slightly, apply glue, and hold it in place for a few seconds under water.

Frags are small pieces of a parent coral colony. They're used for propagation and are often more affordable than full colonies.

It could be adjusting, stressed, or reacting to lighting, water quality, or aggressive tank mates. Check all conditions and give it time.

Yes, especially in SPS or LPS-heavy tanks. Corals use calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium to build their skeletons. Regular dosing or a calcium reactor is key.

Yes, but be cautious. Some corals are aggressive and can sting others. Know the compatibility and spacing needs before mixing soft, LPS, and SPS.

Float the bag to match temperature, then drip acclimate over 30–60 minutes. Dip the coral before placing it in the tank to avoid introducing pests.

It depends on the type. Softies like moderate flow, LPS like low to moderate, and SPS need high, random flow to stay healthy and clean.

Yes. Corals can suffer from brown jelly disease, tissue necrosis, or bacterial infections. Isolate and treat immediately if signs appear.

Bright color, full polyp extension, and steady growth are good signs. Shrinking, bleaching, or tissue loss means something’s wrong.

Not really. Budget lights may keep softies alive, but for real growth and color — especially with LPS and SPS — you need strong, reef-grade lighting.

It’s a platform that holds coral frags, usually made from plastic or magnetic acrylic. Useful for organizing, healing, or growing out frags.

Yes. Common coral pests include aiptasia, flatworms, nudibranchs, red bugs, and vermetid snails. Inspect all new coral before adding.

Photosynthetic corals rely on light. Non-photosynthetic (NPS) corals need manual feeding, often multiple times daily, and don’t require light.

Stable parameters, proper lighting spectrum, low nutrients, and trace element dosing all contribute to vibrant color. Avoid big swings in nitrate or phosphate.

Keep it between 1.025 and 1.026 specific gravity. Use a reliable refractometer and calibrate it regularly.

Limit excess nutrients (nitrates, phosphates), use proper lighting schedules, run a protein skimmer, and stock cleanup crew like snails or urchins.

Indeed, this is a possibility, although not advisable. Live rock offers biological filtration, stability, and natural structure for placing coral.

The bigger the better. Larger tanks are more stable. A 40-gallon or larger is ideal for mixed reefs; nanos require constant maintenance.

Only for a short time. Heat, oxygen, and flow are critical. Use battery backups or a generator to protect your tank during outages.

It’s often a stress response or part of natural shedding. Check for aggressive neighbors, water quality issues, or recent tank changes.

Maintain stable parameters, upgrade lighting, dose trace elements, and provide consistent flow and nutrient levels without overfeeding.

Yes. A separate frag tank or quarantine tank helps spot pests or diseases before they reach your main system.

Corals release toxins or extend stinging tentacles to attack neighbors. Leave plenty of space and use activated carbon to reduce chemical aggression.

Avoid it. Oils, lotions, or contaminants from your skin can harm coral. Some corals also sting or release toxins. Use gloves or coral tongs.

Yes. Many soft corals and encrusting types (like Montipora) can spread and grow over surfaces. Some may even overtake neighboring corals if not trimmed back.

LPS (Large Polyp Stony) corals have large, fleshy polyps and are easier to care for. SPS (Small Polyp Stony) corals are more rigid, require stable water, and need high light and flow.

Indeed, particularly in mixed reefs. Carbon aids in eliminating toxins (such as those from coral warfare), discoloration, and impurities from the water.

To maintain stability, it is crucial to implement 10–20% changes weekly or biweekly. In heavily stocked systems, more frequent changes may be necessary.

If the tank has reef-safe fish, proper lighting, flow, and water quality. Fish-only setups often do not satisfy coral care needs. Ensure that the tank meets the necessary requirements for coral care, including proper lighting, flow, and water quality.

Corals engage in chemical warfare by releasing toxins that inhibit growth or kill others. Effective management involves regular water changes and the use of carbon.

Typically caused by high nutrient levels (particularly nitrates and phosphates) or inadequate lighting. It could lead to overproduction of zooxanthellae.

In theory, yes — but it's inconsistent and risky indoors. Artificial reef lighting enhances control over intensity and spectrum.

Elements like iodine, strontium, and iron are used in coral growth and coloration. Regular dosing or high-quality salt mixes help maintain proper levels.

Maintain water stability, ensure proper lighting and flow, and avoid overcrowding. Softies and LPS may naturally split or produce new polyps under ideal conditions.

RTN (Rapid Tissue Necrosis) and STN (Slow Tissue Necrosis) are conditions where coral tissue peels off the skeleton. They're caused by stress, unstable parameters, or disease. Immediate fragging and stabilization are key.

However, aquacultured coral is more adaptable and less prone to carrying pests. Extend the quarantine period for wild coral and conduct disease monitoring.

Certain species are nocturnal feeders. Daytime stress from fish, light intensity, or flow could lead to closure.

Yes. Blue spectrum lighting enhances fluorescence and simulates dusk/dawn. Some corals even spawn under simulated moonlight.

Zooxanthellae loss causes bleaching. Polyp bailout results from extreme stress. Both indicate coral health issues. It is crucial to address these indicators promptly to ensure the health and longevity of your coral.

Opt for specimen cups or sealed containers with tank water. Shield against temperature shifts. Convey upright and reduce motion.

The fleshy tissue is retracting from the skeleton, typically due to poor flow, light stress, or low alkalinity. Address issues promptly.

If your coral load is light and you conduct regular water changes with a high-quality salt mix, heavier systems require dosing.

Corals such as Xenia, Kenya Tree, or GSP may overgrow tanks. Frag them regularly, isolate them, or place them on 'island' rocks away from the main scape.

Eliminate promptly to prevent ammonia spikes or disease spread. Employ tongs or gloved hands and dispose of it outside the tank system.

Zooxanthellae, a type of photosynthetic algae, inhabit coral tissue and supply energy to the coral through photosynthesis. Their presence is crucial for maintaining coral health and coloration.

Trim when a coral is overgrowing, touching others, or showing healthy branching. Avoid trimming stressed or diseased specimens.

A coral plug is a small base (usually ceramic or plastic) used for fragging. You can leave it, hide it in rockwork, or carefully detach the coral from it.

Yes. Refugiums assist in lowering nutrients, promoting beneficial algae such as chaeto, and boosting biodiversity - all contributing to coral health.

Rapid temperature, salinity, or alkalinity changes can induce temporary stress. Corals typically close for a brief period following significant alterations.

Yes, but you may need to feed more and dose trace elements to keep them healthy and colorful. ULNS tanks can starve corals if not balanced.

Spawning is mass sexual reproduction. It is infrequent but achievable in stable, developed tanks with consistent light cycles and environmental cues.

Yes. Some LPS and soft corals grow rapidly and can overshadow others or reduce flow. Regular fragging and pruning are necessary in mixed reefs.

No direct evidence indicates corals react to sound, but excessive vibration or shock (such as slamming cabinet doors) may stress delicate species.

Use reef sand or go for a bare bottom. Sand aids aesthetics and biological filtration, while bare bottom offers easier flow control and maintenance.

Softies often tolerate higher nutrients. SPS and many LPS need low nitrate (<10 ppm) and phosphate (<0.03 ppm) to stay healthy and colorful.

Indeed. Consistency is crucial. An ATO avoids salinity fluctuations due to evaporation, which may harm or kill delicate corals.

Commonly triggered by elevated nutrients, subpar light quality, or decreased water flow. Indicates an overabundance of zooxanthellae is fading the coral's hue.

Corals fluoresce under blue or actinic light due to proteins in their tissue, resulting in a natural glow. Enhancement is achieved through proper lighting and nutrition.

Yes, but hygiene is crucial. Dirty socks accumulate debris and may lead to elevated nitrate levels. To maintain hygiene, it is important to wash socks regularly to prevent the accumulation of debris.

Yes, but anticipate additional effort. Variables fluctuate quickly in small quantities. Choose resilient soft corals or LPS and steer clear of SPS unless you have expertise.

Use a PAR meter. Most corals need 100–400 PAR, depending on species. Don’t guess — too little or too much light can kill coral.

The ideal range is 8 to 9 dKH. Rapid fluctuations may lead to stress, tissue damage, or mortality, particularly for SPS.

Not akin to animals, yet their polyp activity often aligns with light cycles. Some retract at night, while others forage after dark.

Employ a soft brush, turkey baster, or hydrogen peroxide dip (with caution). Enhance flow and decrease nutrients to inhibit regrowth.

Aiptasia and majano anemones harm and outcompete coral. Address promptly with peppermint shrimp, nudibranchs, or focused treatments.

Yes, opt for reef-safe species. Steer clear of coral-picking crabs or predatory shrimp. Many cleaner shrimp and snails are suitable.

Optional but helpful. UV reduces free-floating parasites and algae, improving water clarity without harming coral.

SPS prefer turbulent, high flow. LPS need indirect, moderate flow. Softies like gentle, randomized movement.

Occasionally. When detected promptly and stressors are addressed, corals could recover color. Severe bleaching frequently results in mortality.

Typically arises from photosynthesis during peak lighting, or trapped microbubbles from pumps or skimmers. It's generally harmless unless excessive.

Yes, but it limits your filtration options. A sump helps hide equipment, improve flow, and increase water volume for stability.

The process involves coral constructing its skeleton with calcium and carbonate, necessitating adequate calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium levels.

Utilize a chisel, scalpel, or bone cutters. Certain corals, such as GSP or Xenia, have the ability to regenerate from tiny pieces, so ensure thoroughness.

A coral exhibits a growth form where it grows outward along the rock surface instead of branching. This is common in many SPS and some LPS corals.

Various species exhibit varied reactions to changes. Closed polyps might indicate irritation, aggression, or pests.

Indeed, tissue can tear, and polyps may retract constantly. Look out for signs like tissue recession or stressed movement.

Magnesium regulates calcium and alkalinity levels. Inadequate magnesium can result in precipitation and suboptimal coral growth.

LEDs offer enhanced efficiency and customization. T5s ensure uniform distribution. Halides, although traditional, boast high power. Numerous aquarists favor LED-T5 hybrids.

Certain Zoanthids and Palythoas harbor palytoxins, highly toxic to humans. Always wear gloves and avoid drying them out.

Growth might slow from limited space, competition, or nutrient deficiency, but healthy coral always expands.

Enhance flow, manually siphon, or utilize turkey basters during water changes to remove debris. Detritus fuels algae and irritates coral.

Absolutely. Overdosing iodine, iron, or others can cause coral bleaching or algae blooms. Test before dosing, and use reliable brands.